Taste of the Continent in Cornwall

You don’t have to go abroad to find sensational continental-style food and wide beaches.

They’re right on our doorstep. Padstow may be tiny but it has a lot to offer, with a beautiful harbour and close to seven bays, it is the bee’s knees for those who love the beach.

Located on the Camel Estuary, it was named after a monastery founded by St Petroc, who arrived on these shores in the 6th century.

Now, with its fresh seafood and the influence of local boy and chef Rick Stein, it has become a gourmet’s paradise.

Its winding lanes and idiosyncratic buildings are authentic on the outside but have been converted into chic bars and fashionable art galleries. 

Stay

in the tiny village of Trebetherick is the St Moritz Hotel (01208 862242/stmoritzhotel.co.uk).

It sits near enough to hear the surf crashing at Polzeath beach.

The hotel was first built in the 1930s when Switzerland was the height of sophistication but its current owners have used its history as inspiration.

The 2008 refurbishment gives a contemporary spin on its art deco heritage and the five storey building takes advantage of the striking views out over the Atlantic.

Colourful striped beach huts and the original pool really enhance the vintage British seaside vibe.

The Cowshed Spa is worth a visit and the St Moritz Signature Treatment is particularly indulgent, featuring a sea salt scrub, a body wrap and a facial on top of the massage (£150).

Raise a glass (or two)

Trevibban Mill Vineyard and Orchard (01841 541413/trevibbanmill.com)

Tucked away down a campion-lined lane, around a 10-minute drive from Padstow, this winery is relatively new on the English wine scene.

Each Sunday one of the wine experts escorts a Grand Walking Tour, during which you will learn about organic viticulture in the UK at the same time as exploring the stunning grounds.

You are exposed to the process from vine to bottle, as they explain how best to protect the grapes from harsher English weather and how the wines are blended to make the best flavours.

The best bit of course is the tasting: of seven whites and roses, my favourite was a beautiful English fizz that employs many of the same skills to make as they use in the Champagne region of France.

At the centre of the vineyard is a striking, contemporary building, where you can enjoy another glass on the terrace with a view of the undulating Cornish countryside.

Trevibban’s restaurant Appleton’s at the Vineyard serves inventive, locally sourced food created by Andy Appleton, former head chef at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen.

The nettle risotto with Cornish yarg and seafood and Israeli couscous stew is certainly memorable. Take plenty of money, chances are you will be heading home with a few bottles.

Tours £30.

A taste of Cornwall

St Petroc’s Bistro (01841 532700/rickstein.com)

In Padstow itself it is hard to avoid the Rick Stein influence, so why try?

Nestled in a quiet street this steakhouse serves unpretentious fare.

Situated in a white Georgian seaside home, Rick has managed to keep some of the character features, such as wooden beams, winding stairs and classic fireplaces, while ensuring the decor stays unfussy and relaxed.

The food is strongly influenced by Rick’s Mediterranean travels but he still uses the best ingredients Cornwall has to offer.

The spinach soup with a poached hen’s egg and parmesan (£6.95) is an unsettling shade of green but moreish.

The menu explains that the 14oz sirloin (£29) on the bone is, in Rick Stein’s opinion, the tastiest cut of beef and I for one can’t bring myself to argue with him.

We paired it with a bottle of Rick Stein’s Spanish Red, a wine he and his son picked out.

A tart bowl of ruby orange and lemon and lime sorbet finished a memorable meal.

Three courses with wine is around £130 for two.

Perfect pasties

The Chough Bakery (01841 533361/cornishpasty.com)

You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to pasties in this part of the world but this eatery has perfected them.

Based on the quayside, this family-run business has been serving Padstow’s population for 30 years.

Everything they use is sourced as locally as possible and their signature beef and blue cheese pasty, made using Cornish beef skirt, has earned them awards – they were Cornish Pasty World Champions in 2016.

Don’t miss their sausage rolls though.

It may be an unorthodox choice but you won’t regret it.

Terrific tipple

The London Inn (01841 532554/padstowlondoninn.co.uk)

There is no shortage of pubs in Padstow.

While many offer beautiful views of the harbour, take a wander up tiny Lanadwell Street.

This boozer is run by Padstow locals Tim and Lisa.

The walls are clad in wood and adorned with trinkets.

A St Austell pub, beer fans will be more than familiar with the purple pump clip of Tribute but there are plenty of other brews to try.

The London Inn opened in 1803 and housed three fisherman’s cottages before being converted.

Its open fires and sunny terrace make it perfect for both winter and summer.

Venture outdoors

The best way to work off a heavy meal is to get outdoors and enjoy everything coastal Cornwall has to offer.

The 18-mile long Camel Trail follows a disused railway line between Wenfordbridge, Bodmin, Wadebridge and Padstow.

It is free to use and virtually level, making it an easy walk even for beginners.

If two legs aren’t really your thing, you can enjoy the trail by horse or hiring bicycles.

The path from Padstow runs alongside the estuary, delivering peaceful views over the water to Rock on the other side until you reach Wadebridge.

You then head through the wooded Camel Valley before approaching Bodmin. Padstow to Wadebridge is 5.5 miles, Wadebridge to Bodmin 5.75 miles and Bodmin to Wenfordbridge is six miles.

It is a great way to spend an afternoon.

Art attack

The Drang Gallery (01841 533114/thedranggallery.com) Located on Padstow harbour’s edge, this tiny gallery has built a reputation for discovering new contemporary artists as well as showcasing household names such as Salvador Dali.

Founded in 2011 by Justine Easton, the gallery rotates original and limited edition work that is available to purchase.

They work closely with talent in London and abroad to ensure that they remain at the forefront of the art world.

At the moment work by artists including Damien Hirst, Tracey Emin, Marc Quinn and the Connor Brothers is on show and next month painter David White will be holding a solo exhibition.

Getting there

The St Moritz Hotel offers doubles from £120 (two sharing), B&B. VisitCornwall.com