ALAMY/GETTY
Symbols of Moscow’s Communist past are still very visible in the city
HIGH LIFE
The Swissotel Krasnye Holmy is a striking 34-storey cylindrical tower next to the Moskva River that stands out on the skyline of Moscow’s business district about two miles from the Kremlin.
Take in the 360 degree views from the City Space Bar & Restaurant which crowns its arresting column shape.
It’s just the place to sample some of their many varieties of vodka while watching the sun go down.
The rest of the hotel is just as impressive, with elegant modern décor in the bedrooms and marble showers. There’s also a beautiful spa and fitness centre.
In the Acapella Restaurant, head chef Ivan Tishkin’s innovative, organic menu will change any preconceptions you may have about dull Russian food, turning traditional dishes and ingredients into incredible flavour experiences such as beef tartar, salmon and poached khachapuri (cheese-filled bread – so much better than it sounds).
Matching Russian wines from the Fanagoria Estate in the Taman peninsula near the Black Sea, such as the Muscat ice wine, were real eye-openers too.
GOING UNDERGROUND
The hotel is also a stone’s throw from the Paveletskaya Metro station, getting you to Red Square in about 40 minutes.
It has an iconic style of tall, white marble pillars and chandeliers, on a high, arched ceiling and serves as a great introduction to these underground stations that were built as “palaces for the people” in Soviet times.
Other highlights include the white-marbled Kiyevskaya Metro.
GETTY/AWL IMAGES
The National Hotel was Lenin’s home for a short period of time
You could be fooled into thinking you are in a Renaissance art gallery and not a subway, with its elaborate artworks, frescoes and mosaics which celebrate Russo-Ukrainian unity.
Passengers are watched over by Lenin, whose portrait stands formidably at the end of the platform.
There’s also the avant-garde yet art-deco Mayakovskaya, whose name pays homage to the Russian poet Vladimir Mayakovsky – who ironically committed suicide in 1930 in despair at the revolution’s fate under Stalin.
Regarded as one of the most beautiful metro stations in the world, Mayakovskaya is constructed from marble, limestone and pink and grey granite.
ALAMY
Paveletskaya metro station is decorated with hammer and sickle
It has high, slender columns to create the impression of a grand hall.
The 34 mosaics on the domed ceiling show Soviet imagery such as collective farm-women holding ripe sheaves of grain.
Lastly, the stately-home-like Belorusskaya is designed with national Belarusian decorations.
Tickets cost 50 roubles (around 66p) for a single ride.
POMP AND CIRCUMSTANCE
The Kremlin’s Armoury Chamber Museum is a treasure trove of Soviet bling.
Located in the imposing but strangely-familiar Kremlin complex, it’s full of pre-revolutionary royal regalia, including gold and diamond festooned carriages, Fabergé Easter Eggs that the last two emperors of Russia gave to their wives, and Catherine the Great’s wedding dress.
This silvery creation has an eye-watering 18.5 inches waist – no wonder she fainted.
The overall effect is a mixture of wonder and a greater understanding of why the people revolted against such decadence.
GETTY/PABLO POLA DAMONTE
Front view of St. Basil’s Cathedral and monuments on the Red Square in front of the Kremlin
PRESERVED LEADER
The Soviet Union’s first leader was, of course, Vladimir Lenin.
He “resides” in his own mausoleum in Red Square where he has been on display since his death in 1924, which is surprising considering the misery he inflicted.
His mummification was a delicate process as the procedure hadn’t been performed previously.
His suit is changed every five years and his organs were replaced by a system which pumps air around the body helping it retain the rather gruesome “lifelike” appearance.
GETTY
The colourful onion domes of St Basil’s Cathedral
Quietly filing past “Comrade Zero” as part of a long line of mainly older Russians is a macabre but fascinating experience, especially when you notice the reverence in which he is still held.
Outside, the granite structure housing the tomb in Red Square is where the Communist top brass watching military parades were photographed – until they were airbrushed out of history, of course.
RUSSIAN BITES
A short walk away from the tomb is Hotel National, which was briefly home to Lenin and the first Soviet government in 1918.
It’s a majestic building with sweeping ornate staircases and crammed with gilt furniture.
GETTY
Lenin’s body is in his own mausoleum in Red Square where he has been on display since his death
It’s here you’ll find the popular Dr Zhivago restaurant with its elegant white interior and red accents.
This is where to watch upper-class Moscovites as they shop on bustling Mokhovaya Street.
You may also spot a bigwig from the next-door Duma building, where Russia’s politicians assemble.
Dr Zhivago serves authentic Russian cuisine at reasonable prices – a surprise given the decadent, chandelier-strewn surroundings.
Go for a bunch of delicious varenyki and meat dumplings (from £3.40) along with a “morning soup” (about £2.60) of chicken broth with croutons.
Glitzy Soho Rooms attract a far younger clientele for the buzzy atmosphere and entertainment.
The sushi (from £2) and the beef fi llet (about £21) were superb. Also on the premises are a disco and swimming pool.
GETTING THERE
British Airways (0844 493 0787) offers three nights at the Swissotel Krasnye Holmy Moscow from £479 (two sharing), room only.
Price includes return flights from Heathrow to Moscow.
Holiday Extras (0800 1313 777) offers three days Meet and Greet parking at Heathrow Terminal 5 from £53.
Moscow tourism: visitrussia.org.uk.
