GETTY
The historic mariners’ district of Boccadasse
THE VIBE
Genoa once rivalled Venice for maritime importance and its huge intact medieval core, just a stroll inland from the port, is stuffed with vivid reminders of the past. The capital of Italy’s Liguria province, Genoa’s gritty charm permeates this network of narrow lanes and its historic centre that has been granted Unesco World Heritage status.
Lined with old merchants’ homes and historic stores selling fragrant pesto and slabs of salty focaccia bread topped with homemade salami, it’s an atmospheric district dominated by 150 Renaissance palazzi where richly frescoed ceilings top tiny, well-preserved salons.
TOUR THE PORT
The Porto Antico is where local lad Christopher Columbus learned his seafaring skills.
Now beautifully spruced up by architect Renzo Piano – the brains behind the Shard in London – it cleverly melds the past with the present, as seen in Piano’s elegant port-facing restaurants and shops created from old warehouses. Get a seagull’s eye view of this CAFÉ SOCIETY: Head to the Piazza delle Erbe for outdoor bars FROM PREVIOUS PAGE enormous port from Il Bigo – Piano’s panoramic lift designed to resemble a soaring crane – then pop into the sprawling aquarium and gawp at dozens of dolphins, porpoise, sharks and jellyfish in the architect’s futuristic glass-domed pavilion.
GETTY
Take a stroll down Via Garibald
TASTE THE CITY
Join a guided walk through Genoa’s 32 historic artisan shops hidden in a maze of atmospheric cobbled alleyways and see traditional methods in action.
With tastings included, you visit tiny stores such as Romeo Viganotti – a 200-year-old chocolate shop famed for hazelnut pralines and flavour-packed crystallised fruits. Likewise the pretty, chandeliered 18th-century Pietro Romanengo shop specialises in cinnamon-flavoured “confetti” sweets and rose syrup fondants.
Like pesto? As the birthplace of the world’s third most popular sauce (after ketchup and mayonnaise), Genoans are rather proud of this tasty basil, pine nut and cheese combo. The city even stages world pesto-making championships every two years. Have a go at making the perfect blend yourself in the old kitchens of a fine Genoese palace offered by Creattivado (creattivando.com) on Via Garibaldi.
DINE BY THE SEA
Genoa is more than simply a busy historical city port. Take a No.15 bus to neighbouring Boccadasse, an idyllic seaside suburb 10 minutes away.
Its tiny beach is flanked by a huddle of colourful fishermen’s cottages with green shutters, interspersed with busy bars. Join locals for seaview aperitivi and nibbles, then head to La Casa dei Capitani in the nearby neighbourhood of Quinto.
This affordable family-run restaurant with a sea-facing terrace and cosy, antique-stuffed interior serves up a feast of almond shrimps, seafood pasta and perfectly cooked local tuna. Around £21.50 for two courses.
GETTY
Head to the Piazza delle Erbe for outdoor bars
AFTER DARK
Genoa comes to life at night around the medieval quarter. Head to tiny Piazza delle Erbe where cafés share outdoor tables.
Bar Berto offers charming service and attracts a lively young crowd.
SOAK UP THE CULTURE
Built in 1098, Genoa’s stunning cathedral San Lorenzo has a dramatic striped facade made from black granite and white Carrara marble.
Admire the Romanesque nave and Baroque altar then head to Via Garibaldi, a pedestrianised street lined with exquisite old merchants’ houses that rival Venice’s palazzi.
Palazzo Rosso, the former six-storey home of the bigwig Brignole-Sale family, has lovely little Baroque salons adorned with frescoes of the four seasons and a rooftop belvedere for great views over Genoa’s domes, alleyways, neighbouring palaces and port.
GETTY
The modern botanical garden biosphere which is part of the aquarium
GETTY
The 11th-century San Lorenzo Cathedral
LUNCH BY THE PORT
Try Genoese and Ligurian specialities such as Focaccia col Formaggio di Recco – a delicious cheese-stuffed focaccia – or Antica Farinata di ceci (a paper-thin chickpea pancake), followed by pasta with walnut sauce and fish at I Tre Merli Restaurant (itremerli.it).
Set in a converted warehouse, it has huge black and white columns, stone walls, a wood-burning oven and terrace overlooking the port.
WHERE TO STAY
Melia Genova (dialling from the UK: 0039 800 788 333/melia.com) is a chic modern hotel set in the residential district of Carignano, just 10 minutes’ walk from the historic centre.
Elegant bedrooms have a cream and grey-toned décor and large marble bathrooms.
The downstairs bar with its low-slung sofas and glass tables serves up cocktails and nibbles.
The perfect spot for a nightcap before bed.
GETTING THERE
Citalia (01293 832416/citalia.co.uk) offers two nights in Genoa from £433pp (two sharing), B&B. Price includes return flights from Gatwick with British Airways and accommodation at the Melia Genova hotel.
Genoa tourism: visitgenoa.it
