YOU ARE the kamikaze,” our ski instructor Fred proclaimed with a wry smile, “you like the speed!” He was right, we had only arrived in the snowy French village of Plan-Peisey three days before, but something in me had already clicked. Streaming down my first intermediate blue run, I could hear the crunch of the fresh snow beneath my skis as the dense forest of tree-lined slopes flashed past, the wind bringing tears to my eyes. In the distance, Mont Blanc emerged from behind a curtain of fog in the distance and a sprawl of idyllic French towns were dotted across the valley floor in front of me.
There was a moment of clarity, a sudden shuddering realisation that I had already missed out on years of powder-perfect pistes and mountain adventures, that I would forever yearn for the effect of this snow-laden utopia in the French Alps.
My first foray into skiing had taken us to the Paradiski region, with 264 miles of pistes across the Les Arcs and La Plagne ski ranges. The area has lively resorts, from Arc 2000 with an Ibizaesque party scene, and Arc 1950, the “Disneyland of the Alps”, a theme park caricature of an alpine village.
But in a quiet corner of Les Arcs the sleepy village of Plan Peisey is a hidden gem. Featuring traditional chalet-style accommodation and picturesque alpine ambience, it is scenic and charming, tucked into the mountainside at a snow-reliable height of 5,400ft. Our warm and friendly British hosts, Sue and Simon, welcomed us into Ski Beat’s Chalet Bayona, a cosy lodge with plenty of space for 14 people to feel right at home.
Our room had a west-facing balcony offering incredible views of the La Plagne ski range and the Vanoise Express cable car that connects it to Les Arcs.
Expect to be treated to hot breakfasts, afternoon tea and excellent three-course dinners. With a sauna and plenty of wine with your evening meal, the experience is ideal for capping off a day’s skiing, even if it makes getting up for a 9am lesson harder.
Just minutes from the chalet’s front door is the meeting point for lessons with the ESF ski school. Our teacher, the rugged Fred, grew up in the village and knows the area like the back of his glove.
His English is almost perfect and he made us feel at home instantly with samples of delicious local Beaufort cheese.
As beginners, simply clipping into the skis was a challenge on day one. After learning to stand came the humbling experience of taking the ski lift for the first time, without skis – the ultimate sign that you can’t be trusted around other people.
In the safe learning area at the top of the lift there was plenty of tumbling and terrifying experiences as hordes of tiny French children whizzed past without fear.
As the days went on we progressed with surprising ease – no doubt due to Fred’s patience and experience – and after our daily two-hour lessons we would explore the mountain and bars dotted around the pistes, where you can enjoy a local Mont Blanc beer or chocolat chaud with cream.
The ski lifts close around 4.30pm, but that is when the area comes to life in a different way as the infamous après-ski kicks in. We found an incredibly familiar experience in the Bar Mont Blanc, a lively pub offering live football, excellent bands and Taking The Piste comedy nights.
There is plenty of delicious Savoyard cuisine in Peisey and the nearby village of Vallandry – mainly crusty baguettes, fondue and tartiflette – a dish of potatoes, reblochon cheese, bacon and cream. Vallandry is a 10-minute walk away from the chalet and its high street is the ideal place for buying gifts or local delicacies.
The jewel in Vallandry’s crown however is the Palace du Chocolat, where chocolate fills every inch of the shop.
There was more to see, but with lessons in the morning, skiing in the afternoon and exploring at night, there just wasn’t time.
SO IT WAS with heavy hearts that we entered our final day on the slopes. After bonding over the week, there was a feeling of genuine warmth in our group when Fred offered to take us on a five-hour lesson – the extra three hours free – to show us more of the mountain.
From one of the highest points at 10,000ft, we went on a series of blue runs that showed us dramatic vistas and gave us a glimpse of the sheer scale of the area.
We stopped at the slope-side Chalets de l’Arc restaurant for a traditional meal of bread filled with ham, cheese and sausage.
Afterwards, I savoured every moment of that final run back to the village, standing up straighter to take in the views from the mountains above to the sea of slopes below.
And with a finish like that, how could we ever resist going back? I just hope Fred has plenty of that cheese left.
THE KNOWLEDGE
Ski Beat (01273 855 100/skibeat.co.uk) offers seven nights at Chalet Bayona, Les Arcs from £609pp (two sharing), full board. Price includes return flights from Gatwick to Geneva and transfers. Les Arcs tourism: lesarcs.com
