Moliets-et-Maa is at the heart of the stunning Landes coastline in France
As a slate-grey wall of ocean builds to a peak, a small surfer springs nimbly to his feet and carves a graceful arc down the wave towards the beach.
And behind him a taller wave-rider, his sun-bleached hair distinctive against the sea, follows a similarly elegant line.
Behind them, a significantly fatter, balder and less graceful version lumbers slowly to his feet, whirls his arms wildly and falls off.
This is Moliets-et-Maa in southwest France and I’ve just watched two of my sons take their first surfing lesson – and totally eclipse their father who has been at it for years.
It’s easy to see why so many people come back here every year
Just three minutes after a two-hour lesson we’re back in our villa, surrounded by pine tees, with the boys wolfing down doughnuts and hot chocolate. If you want the best of both worlds – near the beach but not surrounded by crowds, in the countryside but not miles from the coast – then this really is the perfect place.
An hour’s drive north of Biarritz, or 90 minutes south from Bordeaux, Moliets-et-Maa is at the heart of the stunning Landes coastline and beautifully combines a haven of solitude with activities for all ages.
From surfing to tennis and golf, cycling to quad biking, zipwire treetop adventures to horse riding, boat trips or simply exploring miles of sweeping sand dunes, there is something for everyone.
The villas range in size from six to 12 people and bed linen and towels are provided
We stayed at the Villas La Clairière aux Chevreuils run by accommodation provider Summer France. A well-designed, small collection of around 60 individual villas, each house has its own garden and large, rectangular swimming pool.
The villas range in size from six to 12 people. Bed linen and towels are provided and there is a complimentary mid-stay clean.
Villas have a large, open-plan living room with glass sliding doors opening out on to a garden and a substantial decked area around the pool. Complimentary breakfast baguettes, pastries and croissants arrive at your door on the first morning and you can order a daily delivery to save a five-minute drive to the local boulangerie if you wish.
A welcome pack of a bottle of wine and some local produce was also a huge relief as we arrived after 9.30pm on a Sunday and there was nowhere open to get anything to eat. Unusually, there is no barbecue as they have been banned in the area to prevent fi res in the miles of pine forest which line the coast.
The only sounds you can hear are birdsong and the lapping pool – it is tempting never to leave. But with so much to do on your doorstep – much of it within walking distance – it would be a mistake not to take advantage. The region is rightly famous for its surfing and so it was that Jack, 10, and Harry, 12, were persuaded to have their first surfing lesson.
The region is rightly famous for its surfing
We booked with École de Surf du Golf and were taken to a quiet section of the beach by Camille Reine.
Impossibly tanned, muscular, handsome – and great with kids – he was everything you’d want in a surf instructor. After a short safety lesson in which he explained how waves work and how to avoid being caught in a rip tide, Camille took the boys through the basics of lying on a board and then introduced them to standing up.
Jack was on his feet and confidently riding a wave at his first attempt. Harry took two waves to be standing like a pro.
My husband Greg? Well, he’s willing. I’ll give him that. He certainly had more success on the nearby golf course, Golf de Moliets, which is rated one of the top 10 courses in France.
The club has two courses. One is a nine-hole, 2,100- yard short course set through the pine forest. But it is the magnificent 18-hole, 6,874-yard main course that is the real draw.
The club has two impressive and beautiful golf courses
Designed by renowned course architect Robert Trent Jones in the 1980s, much of the undulating and immaculate course is set through parkland and pine forest. But then, most unexpectedly, players emerge from the pines and on to the coast to play four holes of classic links.
With extensive practise facilities and a welcoming bar it was little short of a miracle that my husband restricted himself to just one round.
One of the best ways to explore is on bicycle. The front office had bikes delivered by hire firm Vélos du Golf. We were quickly whizzing along cycle paths through forests and golf courses. The only limit is stamina and the lure of the pool at your villa.
For real thrill seekers, a three-minute drive from La Clairière takes you to Moliets’ brilliant Adrenaline Parc. Harry and Jack were straight on to quad bikes.
Alfie, eight, opted for the zipwire tree-top challenge which to his utter delight, climaxed in actually riding a quad bike down two parallel zip-wires.
Throw in the renowned food, wine and Armagnac and it’s easy to see why so many people come back here every year.
THE KNOWLEDGE
Summer France (020 3475 4756/ summerfrance.co.uk) offers a villa for seven nights from £662 (eight sharing), self catering. easyJet (easyjet.com) offers return flights from Gatwick to Bordeaux from £72. Moliets-et-Maa tourism: moliets.com
